Recycled Material Standards in Fashion
Fashion is drowning in waste: 18.6 million tons of clothing hit landfills yearly, and less than 1% of textiles are recycled into new products. Meanwhile, the industry generates up to 8% of global carbon emissions and uses 93 billion metric tons of clean water annually.
Recycled material standards aim to fix this. These standards reduce waste, promote circularity, and help brands prove their sustainability claims. Certifications like the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), and OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 ensure recycled content is verified and safe, while also boosting consumer trust.
Key Highlights:
- Certifications Matter: GRS requires at least 20% recycled content and covers social, environmental, and chemical criteria. RCS starts at 5% and focuses on supply chain transparency. OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 prioritizes chemical safety with 20% recycled content minimum.
- Challenges: Fiber degradation, blended materials, and high costs make recycling tough. Greenwashing and vague claims also undermine progress.
- Solutions: Brands can improve by adopting verified certifications, mapping supply chains, and educating consumers about recycled materials.
Why it matters: Consumers demand transparency, with 88% wanting proof of sustainability claims. By adopting recycled material standards, fashion brands can reduce environmental harm, build trust, and meet growing demand for sustainable products.
What is GRS Certification? | Global Recycled Standard Explained | PQSmitra
Key Global Recycled Material Certifications
For fashion brands aiming to back up their sustainability claims, globally recognized certifications play a crucial role. These certifications verify the recycled material content across the supply chain and set benchmarks for eco-friendly practices in the industry. Here’s a closer look at three prominent certifications shaping the fashion world.
Global Recycled Standard (GRS)
Since its inception in 2008 and subsequent management by Textile Exchange in 2011, the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) has become a key player in the industry. To display the GRS logo, products must contain at least 50% recycled material, though the minimum threshold for certification begins at 20% recycled content [1][3].
GRS goes beyond material verification by addressing the entire supply chain. Its four-part audit focuses on regeneration, supply chain traceability, social responsibility, and chemical safety. Additionally, the standard prohibits harmful chemicals and provides Transaction Certificates (TCs) and Scope Certificates (SCs) to confirm compliance. The ultimate goals? To improve labeling accuracy, encourage innovation in recycled materials, enhance transparency, and minimize environmental damage during production.
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS)
The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an excellent starting point for brands new to incorporating recycled materials. It requires only 5% recycled content [4], making it more accessible for companies at the beginning of their sustainability journey. The certification relies on strict chain-of-custody procedures, ensuring every step of production - from recycling to the final transaction - is documented and verified.
In July 2024, Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange launched the Tracing Textile Waste Project, aimed at improving visibility for pre-consumer material inputs. Brands like adidas, Target, Bestseller, Norrøna, and Levi Strauss & Co. have joined the initiative [6]. As explained by Control Union Global:
"The RCS verifies recycled material in products through chain-of-custody verification, ensuring transparency and accurate communication between businesses and consumers." [5]
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 Recycled Criteria
The OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 certification prioritizes chemical safety while also verifying recycled content. It tests textiles for over 1,000 harmful substances [8] and requires products to contain at least 20% recycled material [7]. Testing protocols vary based on the material source and may involve more frequent assessments.
However, there are some specific rules: pre-consumer PET bottles cannot be used as a source, and when virgin materials are blended with recycled ones, the virgin components need separate certification [9]. Unlike GRS and RCS, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 focuses solely on chemical safety and does not cover social or environmental processing criteria.
Common Challenges with Recycled Material Standards
Recycled material certifications face a range of obstacles, from technical hurdles to economic pressures, making the shift from virgin to recycled materials a far more intricate process than it might seem at first glance.
Fiber Quality and Recycling Limitations
One of the biggest challenges with recycling textiles is the inevitable decline in fiber quality. Mechanical recycling, for instance, physically breaks down fibers, which reduces their length and strength. This results in weaker yarns and less durable fabrics. Shockingly, only about 1% of recycled clothing is turned back into new garments, despite the fashion industry churning out over 100 billion items annually [10][12].
Blended fabrics add another layer of complexity. Separating materials like cotton and polyester in blended garments requires advanced processes that are often unavailable or too costly for many recycling facilities [10]. This technical difficulty often leads to downcycling - where materials are repurposed into lower-quality products - or outright disposal instead of true textile-to-textile recycling.
Contamination is another major issue. Dyes, finishes, and treatments used in clothing can interfere with recycling processes, leading to lower-quality recycled fibers that aren’t suitable for creating high-quality garments [10]. Even recycled polyester, often made from plastic bottles, presents challenges. It sheds microplastics and can’t be recycled indefinitely, limiting its role in creating a truly circular system [12].
Greenwashing Risks and Certification Fraud
Technical problems aside, misleading sustainability claims - commonly known as greenwashing - further muddy the waters. Alarming statistics show that nearly 39% of sustainability claims in the textile, garment, and footwear sectors may be false or deceptive [15]. In the UK alone, over half of the sustainability claims made by leading fashion brands in 2021 were flagged as greenwashing [13].
Some brands exploit vague sustainability claims to mislead consumers. Highlighting small recycled material initiatives while glossing over larger environmental impacts creates an illusion of progress [14]. This selective transparency undermines genuine efforts toward sustainability.
To counter this, brands must embrace real transparency instead of relying on marketing buzzwords. This means sharing detailed, verifiable information about sourcing, production, and certifications. Independent third-party certifications are especially important for validating claims and building trust with consumers [16].
Cost and Feasibility of Using Recycled Materials
Economic factors also play a major role in the adoption of recycled materials. Fabric alone accounts for 60% to 70% of the total cost of producing a garment, so material choices have a huge impact on profitability [17].
The cost differences between recycled and virgin materials can be stark, depending on the fiber. For example, recycled cotton yarn often costs more than virgin cotton due to the additional processing required to make it usable [17]. Organic cotton, for instance, costs between $500 and $700 per ton, compared to $225 to $345 for conventional cotton [17]. On the other hand, some recycled materials, like wool, can be less expensive than their virgin counterparts [17].
Infrastructure demands add another layer of financial strain. Advanced sorting technologies and processing facilities require significant investment, and the industry faces a shortage of skilled workers capable of dismantling garments and separating materials for reuse [10][17].
The fast fashion model exacerbates these challenges. As Harald Cavalli-Björkman, Strategy Director at Renewcell, explains:
"Before we had industrialized textiles production, people took care of their clothes... They repaired them because clothing was an investment. Today, clothing is so cheap that the perception is, you can always grow some more cotton, you can always pump some more oil – that's far easier than putting the effort into creating a quality product from something that already exists and could stay in circulation" [12].
This economic reality makes recycled textiles more expensive to produce and purchase compared to those made from virgin materials [11]. These financial and technical challenges highlight the importance of strong standards and genuine transparency in recycled material initiatives.
| Challenge Type | Key Issues | Impact on Brands |
|---|---|---|
| Technical Limitations | Fiber degradation, contamination, blending complexity | Lower quality and limited reuse |
| Greenwashing Risks | False claims, selective transparency, consumer deception | Legal risks, reputation damage |
| Economic Barriers | Higher costs, infrastructure needs, skills shortage | Reduced profitability, scalability issues |
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Best Practices for Fashion Brands
Fashion brands can successfully integrate recycled material standards into their operations by focusing on three key areas: sourcing, transparency, and consumer education.
Sourcing and Verifying Recycled Materials
Building reliable supplier relationships and implementing strict verification processes are essential for a recycled material program to succeed. Brands need to ensure the authenticity of their supply chain at every step.
Third-party certifications play a vital role here. The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) are widely recognized certifications that require independent verification of recycled inputs and chain of custody. According to Textile Exchange, “The RCS and GRS are designed to boost the use of recycled materials.” While both aim to increase the adoption of recycled materials, the GRS goes further by including social and environmental criteria, as well as chemical restrictions [2][18].
Regular factory audits conducted by independent third-party auditors help confirm compliance with sustainability and ethical standards. These audits should verify certifications and gather detailed information about suppliers. On-site visits can also provide firsthand insights into working conditions and environmental practices, ensuring that sustainability claims are more than just words on paper [20]. Direct conversations with factory managers about their sustainability goals can further strengthen these partnerships.
The industry is also advancing to address verification challenges. In 2024, Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange launched the Tracing Textile Waste Project, a two-year initiative aimed at improving data harmonization and system capabilities in the reverse supply chain. This project will provide recommendations for refining standards like the GRS and RCS [19].
These sourcing strategies naturally complement efforts to improve supply chain transparency.
Improving Supply Chain Transparency
Transparency starts with mapping the entire supply chain. This helps brands identify risks and set up monitoring systems, which is crucial given that 80% of consumers doubt the transparency of brands regarding their products and manufacturing processes [24][25].
Technologies like blockchain, digital product passports, and physical tracers are making it easier to track materials throughout the supply chain [21][22][23]. For example, Patagonia’s Footprint Chronicles lets customers trace the environmental impact of its products, while H&M uses the Higg Index and digital passports to track a garment’s lifecycle [25].
Advanced tracing methods also enhance verification. Techniques like isotope analysis can confirm the geographic origin of natural fibers, while additive tracers, such as artificial DNA or pigments, help track materials across the supply chain. As Gediminas Mikutis from Haelixa puts it, “You cannot claim certain labels unless you can guarantee that specific product meets those standards” [22][25].
Once supply chain transparency is in place, the next step is educating consumers to bridge the gap between sustainable production and market acceptance.
Educating Consumers on Recycled Material Standards
Consumer education is critical in promoting recycled materials. Despite the growing interest in sustainability, many consumers are unaware of the benefits of recycled materials or have doubts about their quality [27]. Brands must take an active role in addressing these gaps and encouraging sustainable consumption.
Clear and transparent product information is key. Labels and marketing materials should highlight sustainability features and the circular aspects of production, especially since 54% of shoppers in the UK don’t trust brands’ sustainability claims [25][26]. Engaging content, such as blog posts, videos, and social media campaigns, can answer common questions and dispel myths about recycled materials. Additionally, providing detailed care and repair instructions can help extend the life of garments [26].
Workshops and events offer hands-on opportunities to educate consumers about sustainable fashion. Partnering with environmental organizations and influencers can amplify these efforts, helping brands reach larger audiences with sustainability messages.
A great example of this is Eileen Fisher, which has prioritized transparency in its operations. By 2022, 81% of the brand’s raw materials met third-party sustainability criteria, including certifications like the Global Organic Textile Standard and the Global Recycled Standard. The company also maintained full traceability in its sourcing practices [28].
As Shameek Ghosh, CEO of TrusTrace, explains, “Everything we want to improve depends on our ability to measure it” [25]. Accurate measurement ensures that educational efforts lead to meaningful changes in consumer behavior and business operations, building trust and reinforcing the credibility of recycled material initiatives.
Brands like dorsaLi are already implementing these strategies to ensure their garments meet high standards of sustainability and ethical production, setting an example for the industry to follow.
The Future of Recycled Material Standards in Fashion
The fashion industry is experiencing a transformative shift as advancements in technology, stricter regulations, and evolving consumer expectations reshape the standards for recycled materials. For instance, the European Union produces about 12.6 million tons of textile waste annually, with a staggering 80% of it ending up in landfills [11][30].
Artificial intelligence is playing a game-changing role in textile sorting. Companies like Valvan N.V., Sortile, and Refiberd are using AI-driven systems that achieve accuracy rates as high as 99% [30]. These technologies outperform human capabilities, with some projects reporting sorting accuracy rates of up to 96% [30].
"AI revolutionizes the efficiency of Textile Waste Management Strategies." – Sustainability Directory [30]
The economic potential tied to these advancements is immense. In Europe alone, fiber-to-fiber recycling could generate between $2 billion and $3 billion in revenue by 2030. However, recycled fibers currently cost 1.2 to 3 times more than virgin fibers. To address this, collaborative efforts are proving effective. For example, Mud Jeans has partnered with other companies to pool post-consumer denim, reducing recycled cotton costs by roughly 18% [31][32].
Meanwhile, new regulations in places like New York, France, and California are pushing the industry toward greater accountability. These laws require supply chain mapping and environmental labeling, with steep penalties for non-compliance [34].
Consumer behavior is also driving change. Surveys show that two-thirds of consumers now prioritize reducing climate change impacts, and 67% consider sustainable materials an important factor when making purchases. Reflecting this shift, the global sustainable fashion market, valued at approximately $70.7 billion in 2023, is projected to grow to $135.1 billion by 2031, with a compound annual growth rate of 8.58% [35][36].
Technologies like Digital Product Passports are enhancing transparency by allowing materials to be tracked throughout their lifecycle. When combined with blockchain, these tools are helping to address the longstanding opacity of fashion supply chains [29][32].
"Policy interventions are essential to incentivize textile recycling and shift the fashion industry towards circular models." – Sustainability Directory [29]
Looking ahead, it’s clear that recycled material standards are becoming more refined, accessible, and economically feasible. Brands that invest early in AI-powered sorting, chemical recycling innovations, and strategic partnerships are positioning themselves for success. H&M, for example, is already making strides by increasing the recycled content in its products to 29.5% by 2024 [33]. This shift toward a circular fashion ecosystem not only transforms waste into valuable resources but also strengthens consumer trust through greater transparency and forward-thinking innovation.
FAQs
What are the differences between GRS, RCS, and OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 in verifying sustainability in fashion?
The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) both address recycled content in textiles, but their focus and criteria set them apart. GRS requires products to contain at least 50% recycled materials and enforces strict guidelines for production, including social responsibility and chemical use restrictions. This ensures that certified products are not only made with recycled content but are also produced in an ethical and environmentally conscious manner.
RCS, however, takes a narrower approach. It verifies the origin and quantity of recycled materials, requiring only 5% recycled content. Unlike GRS, it does not impose extensive requirements related to social or environmental practices, making it less comprehensive in scope.
On the other hand, OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 shifts the focus entirely. Instead of addressing recycled content, it certifies that textiles are free from harmful substances. This certification prioritizes consumer safety, ensuring the materials used are safe for human health. While it doesn’t directly address recycling or sustainability, it guarantees products meet stringent chemical safety standards.
In essence, GRS and RCS are centered on verifying recycled materials, with GRS offering broader criteria, while OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 emphasizes chemical safety over sustainability.
What challenges do fashion brands face when using recycled materials, and how can they address them?
Integrating recycled materials into fashion supply chains isn’t without its hurdles. One of the biggest challenges is the inconsistent supply of these materials, which can throw off production schedules and result in either too much or too little inventory. On top of that, manufacturers often need to upgrade their equipment or adopt new technologies to handle recycled materials, which can be a costly adjustment. Then there’s the issue of quality - recycled materials must meet the same standards as traditional ones, as consumers expect sustainable products to deliver the same performance and durability.
To tackle these obstacles, brands can implement flexible production strategies that adapt to material availability. Partnering with material science experts and investing in thorough quality control processes can help ensure that products made with recycled materials are both reliable and attractive. Additionally, open communication about the environmental benefits of these materials can go a long way in building consumer confidence and encouraging support for sustainable initiatives.
Why is supply chain transparency important, and how do technologies like blockchain and digital product passports help?
Why Supply Chain Transparency Matters
Supply chain transparency is a cornerstone of building consumer trust. When customers understand where and how products are made, they feel empowered to make ethical and informed choices. In fact, research highlights that people are more likely to support brands that prioritize transparency - and many are even willing to pay extra for products they believe in.
Emerging technologies like blockchain and digital product passports are transforming how brands achieve this transparency. Blockchain technology provides a secure, tamper-proof record of a product’s journey, tracking every step from raw materials to the final delivery. Meanwhile, digital product passports compile detailed data about a product’s origin, materials, and environmental impact. Together, these tools ensure traceability and accountability, creating stronger bonds between brands and socially conscious shoppers.
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